Suspension Damper

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What does BPU(TM) stand for? (BPU(TM) can be a trademark of SupraStore.com)

Basic Performance Upgrades. These are the modifications that have verified to give the best HP-to-$$$ ratio.

And what's APU?

That stands for any extra power producing modifications other than the fundamental BPU(TM) modifications. One "+" refers to Adj. Cam Gears and under-drive pulleys, the second "+" refers to a Fuel controller, ECU upgrade, etc. For instance, a Supra with the BPU(TM) modifications, plus a front-mount intercooler, could be referred to as BPU(TM)+. If you added cam gears to that, it could be BPU(TM)++, and so on. Then it's referred to as APU, advanced performance upgrades.

I advise beginning with raising the enhance of the stock turbos to roughly 18psi. This may require a good quality boost gauge and a enhance cut eliminator (GReddy BCC). You will attain 15 or so PSI with the stock Down Pipe in place. This will supply an addition of roughly 30rwhp. After those modifications are completed, it would be a logical next step to install the Down Pipe and Cat-Back Exhaust at the identical time.

What do all the several "Free Mods" do?

The ones I will cover fall into 3 categories, enhance control, EGR disabling, and TTC or True Twin Conversion.

Three of the increase control mods are: Bleeder-T Mod, Clamp Mod, along with the VSV Bypass Mod. Each of these modifications raise boost levels without having the use of a increase controller. But you must keep a close eye in your boost gauge, and make sure they aren't permitting the turbos to enhance too high (18psi is frequently a secure level).

The next mods, are the accurate twin conversion mods (or TTC). This modification disables the Sequential twin turbo operation, and causes the turbos to run regularly in parallel (both on at the same time). Two forms of the TTC mod are, the traditional TTC mod which includes 2 methods, wiring the actuators, or installing a 1 way valve, as well as the Electronic TTC mod (ETTC).

The last mod I will talk about will be the EGR mod. This disables the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, which is meant for emissions, and therefore, this modification is for off-road use only. This mod is supposed to stop the super heating of the quantity five and 6 cylinders, which could trigger burnt valves.

Most BPU(TM)-only Supra Twin Turbos, dyno in between 370 and 410 horsepower at the rear wheels. On the street, energy will be reduced, especially in poor weather, but no less than 90 percent of the power will need to be retained.

It varies WIDELY depending on driver skill. As properly as track conditions, elevation above sea level, ambient temperatures, humidity, and pre-race preparation. But most fall in between 12.3 to 12.9 ets with 112 to 119mph trap speeds on street tires.

What can be a BPU(TM)'d Supra TT's top speed?

Speeds within the mid-high 180mph range must be achievable. Once the speed-limiter is disabled, by pulling the "TRAC" fuse of course.

If the car is maintained properly, and the vehicle is treated with some respect for the components, you should maintain substantially of the power train's life. Which contemplating the fact that the Supra is by far 1 of the most trustworthy and durable sports cars, it is going to last longer than most well maintained STOCK sports cars. It will more than likely not final much longer than 8-10k miles as soon as at BPU(TM). This especially holds true if the auto is producing repeated high speed runs making use of 5th and 6th gear at wide open throttle. If your stock clutch has high mileage on it, or is already beginning to slip, you are going to want to plan on a brand new high-performance clutch. Also the stock turbos will likely be topic to a somewhat shortened life span (how brief will depend on how you drive and preserve the car, at the same time as just how much enhance you may run)

What's the reliability of a 600hp Supra Turbo?

Chassis, electrical, and suspension components ought to see little effect on reliability on street driven Supras. Just how extended depends on maintenance, and how tough you drive it, and how often. But usually Supras can go for years at this power level.

Basically a set-up that is either VERY well concieved, or utilizes OE components as much as possible, with out more than burdening them, would posses *near* stock reliability.

What are the power limits of the a variety of factory components (Differential, Transmission, Motor, etc.)?

There have truly not been adequate failures to really pin point a limit for the numerous power-train components. The motor could fail at factory power levels if it was running dangerously lean. But when properly tuned, the motors internals (Pistons, Rods, Crank, Head Gasket etc) are trustworthy to 700rwhp. But needless to say at these energy levels, if the engine is not set-up and tuned properly, it can be literally a bomb waiting to go off, nonetheless this will be just as accurate having a built motor. Some owners have pushed their stock internals to the limit and have properly exceeded 800rwhp, and even approached 900rwhp. I still don't have an understanding of how such an over built motor made it past the bean counters at Toyota Corporate.

Even driven hard, the Getrag need to hold up reasonably well with 700RWHP. If you treat it with some respect, it ought to be able to deal with about 800RWHP or more, even though wonderful care and respect will need to have to be practiced at those levels.

Differential, axle, CV Joint, and drive shaft failures are a VERY rare occurrence. So I don't have a lot info on their failure limits. On street tires, it could be just about impossible to break any of these components at ANY power level. The tires would spin prior to they would put the driveline below that kind of strain. The tires act sort of like a circuit breaker. If you run drag slicks, this doesn't hold true of course, yet they've confirmed themselves to be 10 as properly as 9 second capable.

Will drivability, interior noise levels, and low-end energy be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?

Some will make it far louder; some will actually make it quieter. But most are just a little bit louder than stock. But the added dBs are also combined with a MUCH sweeter exhaust note, so it's undoubtedly worth it. And the interior of the Supra is fairly quiet anyway, so on the highway, it'll be VERY livable. As far as low-end energy goes, the down-pipe will significantly decrease Turbo Lag. So low-end energy and response is a lot improved more than stock.

Will emissions be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?

If you run devoid of catalytic converters, you are undertaking so at your own risk, and also you wouldn't pass visual or emissions testing.

If driven calmly, as in light throttle, mileage will need to not be significantly affected. Mileage will greatly lower in the course of however, in case you drive "vigorously", far more power equals a lot more burned fuel I am afraid.

Should I install an "Intake" (Open Element Filter)?

However, it's going to also draw in much more heated engine compartment air, which can hurt performance. My assistance would be to either modify the stock filter box, or install a cool air induction box, like the Max Air.

What about the stock intercooler?

The stock intercooler does a decent job up till about 17psi on the stock turbos, after that you simply would most likely notice a considerable gain, specifically in warmer temperatures, with a nice front mount intercooler. However, keep in mind it will block a number of the airflow to the radiator, as well as decreasing response slightly.

Should I replace the factory rubber Intercooler hoses with aftermarket metal hoses?

It wouldn't hurt.

What concerning the fuel system, are the stock injectors and fuel pump massive enough for BPU(TM)?

Yes, the stock fuel system is incredibly secure and dependable to 450RWHP, despite the reality that I would recommend a fuel pulsation damper bypass. Anything over that, and I would highly suggest having the auto dyno'd, and utilizing a wide-band O2 sensor (not a low cost A/F gauge connected to the stock O2) to check the fuel ratio at your high boost setting. 11.5:1 would be a safe fuel ratio.

What are the stock injectors rated at?

Supra has come to be incredibly well-liked after the Fast & the Furious movie. Everybody remembers the famous 10-second orange MKIV generation Supra. This could be the point where Supra owners began to think far more about converting their slow non-turbo 2JZ-GE engines into a 400-700 horsepower 2JZ-GE-T beasts.

Would the Supra benefit from a fuel controller?

BPU(TM)'d Supras run somewhat on the wealthy side as far as fuel ratios go. This hurts power. What it does do is offer a safety margin that makes engine damage through detonation unlikely. The Fields SFC is beneficial too.

What really should I use to increase my enhance level, an Electronic Boost Controller, or a Manual BC?

Using an EBC could be the safest way to raise boost, it will stop spiking and over-boosting. But it actually comes down to your budget. If you may afford an EBC, get one. If you can't, go having a MBC. And whatever you might be utilizing to control boost, bear in mind to not get carried away, I do not suggest going frequently over 18psi.

What could be the ideal Electronic Boost Controller?

There actually is no BEST. Most of the large producers make decent units. Just avoid fuzzy-logic equipped models when you still have the sequential stock turbos, they will turn into "confused" by the unnatural behavior of the sequential system.

When installing my EBC, do I connect it to both of the Turbo's Wastegates?

When in full twin turbo mode, the increase of each Turbos is regulated by the main turbo's wastegate. So, only connect it to the Primary's.

Some men and women say I have to have to replace my ECU with a reprogrammed one, as opposed to just utilizing a enhance controller. Do I?

Reprogrammed ECUs for the Supra TT are VERY $$$. And they've not been confirmed to give a considerable improve in performance or safety on BPU(TM) level cars. Their merit shows itself on vehicles with upgraded Turbo(s). Just be certain you buy your ECU, or have it reprogrammed by a reputable shop that knows what they are doing. And have it tailored to your particular automobile (Driving habits, and Mods). And I would also recommend taking a look at the AEM Programmable system.

The common consensus is 17-18psi.

Which Down-Pipe is recommended?

The RMM (or Rod Millen Motorsports) Cat-less Downpipe is the most commonly used. However numerous other brands exist. Some down-pipes, such as the Random Technologies DP, feature an emissions legal high-flow catalytic converter.

Will a high-flow cat hurt performance?

It will have some effect on power output, but not a lot. Its precise effect on HP just isn't clear, but it almost certainly costs a couple of hp at the most, perhaps 5-15hp at BPU(TM) power levels.

The Downpipe is also exactly where the two catalytic converters are located, at the similar time as the O2 sensor (or sensors in OBD-II cars).

I have an OBD2 car. Can I still install a Down-Pipe?

Yes. But unless the DP has a Catalyst and also a second place for an O2 sensor, you may trip your check engine light, unless you get 1 of those O2 "black boxes".

Which Exhausts are the loudest?

The Tanabe Racing Medallion, and HKS Hiper Titanium seem to be the two loudest systems.

Which Exhausts are the quietest?

I am one of those owners (yes, a girl with a lovely red Supra) having a naturally aspirated Toyota Supra 1995, 222hp in stock with manual gearbox. The automobile is gorgeous, sexy lines, original interior - excellent feeling to drive the car. The only thing that was wrong was the lack of power. So I decided to tune it. I was entirely new to turbo chargers, standalone engine management, intercoolers and BOV-s. I had no notion how much it could cost and that it was not the best choice to tune a car with 184k miles on the odometer.

The Tanabe Hyper Medallion, the discontinued Tanabe G-Power Medallion and also the GReddy (SP) Street Performance seem to be the quietest. But at full throttle they seem to "wake up" a bit.

What are some recommended exhaust systems?

It depends on your personal preferences. Below I will break down some of my recommendations based on particular combinations of preferences.

Subtle Styling / Very Low Cost:

Subtle Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-GReddy Street Performance (80mm)

Subtle Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-ATR (75mm, full stainless steel)

Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:

-HKS Dragger II (85mm)

Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-HKS Super Dragger (95mm)

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WRC Technical - Dampers